City Island is an odd, sleepy little fishing port, rampant with fish shacks and blinking neon lobsters. For more land-locked menu options, locals head over to the Tree House—yes, with an actual tree in the center, wrapped in Christmas lights and encased in glass.
At this quirky, homey restaurant, two brothers born in Montenegro, Yugoslavia, but reared in the pizza shops of the Bronx, bake charred, thin-crust pizza topped a dozen ways, along with a full menu of Italian and northern Mediterranean entrees. Meals begin with crusty bread from Arthur Avenue, served with silky red pepper and eggplant dipping sauces. Meaty choices abound, with pork sausage, pepperoni, and smoked meats topping traditional cheese pies, and appetizers like chevapas (skinless beef sausage) and shunka wrappers (cheese rolled in prime bacon) to titillate hearty appetites. More delicate dishes show that someone in the kitchen has a deft hand with the mandoline: Salads are showered with fine tendrils of mild feta; battered, golden eggplant parmigiana’s sliced as thin as poker chips; the Sicilian trout’s lavished with nearly translucent sliced garlic, and the house potatoes are deep-fried discs of carbohydrate splendor. Among the soothingly cloud-like Italian desserts, the cocoa-cloaked tartufo.
The Tree House Restaurant caters private functions, and can be rented for private parties or family celebrations.
Italian wedding soup, $3.95; shope salad, $6.95; Tree House special pizza, $20; trout à la Siciliano, $ 19.95
273 City Island Ave., Bronx, NY 10464
Sun-Thu, 11:30am-10pm; Fri-Sat, 11:30am-11pm
Nearby Subway Stops
6 at Pelham Bay Park
Take the Bx29 bus to City Island
American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
* Dine at the Bar
* Outdoor Dining
* Private Dining/Party Space
* Full Bar