Quickly becoming as mandatory a stop on the tri-state pizza-pilgrim map as Coney Island’s Totonno’s and New Haven’s Pepe’s, Zero Otto Nove is not only a pizzeria but a sprawling trattoria with an expansive menu and a pretty impressive pasta al forno.
The Neapolitan wood-fired-oven pizza, though, is the thing. It’s made—if you time it right—by a 26-year-old, white-T-shirt-clad, Salerno-born pizzaiolo named Riccardo. It’s light and puffy-lipped, tender to the bite with just a hint of chew, nicely balanced, and topped with first-rate ingredients. Purists will want to try the margherita ($13.95), of course, made according to strict Neapolitan-pizza-police guidelines, with buffalo mozzarella. But don’t forgo the relatively outré La Riccardo ($13.95)—smoked mozzarella, pancetta, and butternut-squash purée.
Tue-Thu, noon-2:30pm and 4:30pm-10pm; Fri-Sat, noon-2:30pm and 4:30pm-11pm; Sun, 1pm-9pm
Metro-North to Fordham. Walk south on Third Avenue, left on 187th Street, right on Arthur Avenue.
* Reservations Not Required
* Full Bar